Custom Processing at

Fingerlakes Woolen Mill

new prices effective May 1, 2006

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Custom Wool Processing

Fingerlakes Woolen Mill provides custom washing, picking, carding and spinning for wool and blends. For picking and thorough blending the mill uses a 48" pre-carding picker. Next, a 60" carding machine is used in a process that produces a light continuous web (roving) about 10" wide. The carding line includes a "peralta", a set of 1-ton steel rolls used to pulverize some of the foreign matter present in the fiber. The card also produces pencil roving which can be used directly or spun on a spinning frame.

Spinning is done using the woolen method on a spinning frame. The pencil roving from the carder is delivered to individual spinning units on the frame where drafting and twist are added and the yarn placed on bobbins. The next stage might be plying, and skeinwinding.

Your Raw Wool Washed and Processed into Roving

You can wash your wool prior to sending it to the mill (see "Instructions for Home Scouring") or it can be done at the mill for you. (Because of the difficulty presented with mohair, Fingerlakes Woolen Mill asks that they do the scouring. See mohair price under Raw Mohair Blends below)
Minimum: 8 lbs. per batch. Smaller batches can be accepted with a $25 minimum processing payment.

8 to 49 lbs. - $5.00/lb.
50 lbs. and over - $4.75/lb.
For greasy wools (i.e.Rambouillet) add 75¢ to the above prices (those fibers require extra washing); Targhee or Merino, add $2.00.

Your Washed Wool Processed into Roving

Recommended minimum 5 lbs. per order. The smaller the amount, the larger the percentage of waste. The minimum to be processed is 3 lbs. for any one batch but again 5 lbs. or more is recommended for a better yield. Processing batches under 5 lbs will have a $20 minimum processing payment. Note: the wool you send must not feel tacky or greasy. A good way to test is to handle the wool for several minutes, then press your fingertips together. If the fingertips even slightly stick you need to wash more.

5 to 49 lbs. - $4.00/lb.
50 to 100 lbs. - $3.75/lb.
over 100 lbs. - $3.30/lb.

Your Raw Wool Washed and Picked

If you want to card the wool yourself or if your wool is too long (over 5.5" on the average ) to be carded, this is a nice option. This is also a good option for long fleeces, such as Romney and Border Leicester. Many people find that they can spin the picked coarse wool without carding.

5 lbs. min per batch - $4.00/lb
5 lbs. min. per batch (mohair) - $6.00/lb.

Your Raw Wool or Mohair Blends into Roving

Fingerlakes Woolen Mill can provide silk, wool and nylon for blending with wool or mohair (call for prices), or you may send yours. Other possible blends are wool with dog hair and llama. Min. 8 lbs./batch.

50% mohair (max.) - $7.00/lb.
others (50% wool or more) - $5.50/lb. (call for 50% wool or less)

Your Washed 50%+ Wool Blends into Roving

(No mohair please, it must be washed at the mill) Min. 5 lbs./batch - $5.00/lb.

Custom Carding of Wool Into Pencil Roving

(Pencil roving may be used directly for hand or machine knitting)
A. Includes washing, picking and carding - Min. 75 lbs. of raw wool:
$12.00 per lb. of finished pencil roving;
$2.00 extra for Rambouillet; $4.00 extra for Merino or Mohair/wool blend

B. Includes picking and carding - Min. 55 lbs. of washed wool:
$9.50 per lb. of finished pencil roving.

Custom Spinning - 100% Wool

A. Includes washing, picking, carding, spinning and skeining - Min.: 75 lbs. of raw wool: $15.50 per lb. of finished yarn.
$1.00 extra per lb. for 2-ply or 3-ply.
$2.00 extra for Rambouillet; $4.00 extra for Merino or Mohair/wool blend

B. Includes picking, carding, spinning and skeining - Min. 55 lbs. of washed wool: $11.50 per lb. of finished yarn.
$1.00 extra per lb. for 2-ply or 3-ply.

Note: there are surcharges on single yardage higher than 3,000 yards per pound.

Wool Blends:
Up to 25% mohair, 30% angora or silk: same as above plus an additional $2.50 per finished pound on the percent of the blend which is not wool.
Up to 40% angora or silk: add $6.50 per finished pound on the percent of the blend which is not wool.
Call for prices of blends of other fibers.

Yarn choices (examples): Others are available. Please call.
Single: Approx. 2,200 yds. per lb.
2-ply: Approx. 1,250 yds./lb. Sportsweight/light worsted
Double twist 1-ply: Approx. 1,250 yds. per lb. Sportsweight
2-ply double twist: Approx. 650 yds./lb. Heavy Worsted Weight/Bulky
3-ply: Approx. 840 yds./lb. Worsted Weight

Fingerlakes Woolen Mill can spin most any weight yarn you desire, however, the equipment is set up for lighter weight yarns. The type of wool being spun has a great influence on how the yarn looks and feels. A 1200-yards-per-pound merino yarn will not look like a 1200-yards-per-pound yarn made with coarse fibers. A good way to select the type and weight of yarn for your wool is to visit a yarn store and compare with yarns made with your type of wool. Everything in the mill is done by yardage, so you have to address this at some point.

Requirements

Wool staple must be at least 2" and no longer than 5"; ideally the length should be in the 3" range. With machine spinning, there is no advantage to long wool and at some point long wool cannot be carded. Shear twice a year if need be. The wool must be free of moths, moth damage, manure tags and heavy mats. This means you should skirt the fleece and remove these things. The mill will not accept any fiber that shows presence of moths. The wool should be as free as possible from burrs, hay chaff and second cuts. Skirt this stuff too. While picking and carding, even spinning, will result in cleaner wool, the old rule applies - the more junk you start with, the more you end up with.

The staff at Fingerlakes is surprised at the number of orders that come in unskirted. This is something to be done at shearing time. It will cost you more to have skirting done at the mill and if your product is too contaminated, it will be rejected.

The staff at Fingerlakes does it best in processing every order, but it cannot be responsible for pilling during carding that occurrs due to weak or damaged wool fibers. This noiling is a disappointment to everyone and causes us hours of lost working time while we are forced to clean the problem wool off of our equipment. Please insure that your fleeces are in good condition before sending them to the mill.

Instructions for Home Scouring

Skirt your fleeces by removing the belly wool, any manure tags, matts, burrs and chaffy wool. It helps if you attempt to pull the fleece apart, or pick it somewhat, before washing. Smaller pieces makes all the steps easier. (If you are close, you can get help from the mill: one of the machines can do this job.) Fill a tub with hot water (130º F or more - hotter than your hands can stand - as hot as your hot water heater can produce safely; 150º is great). Add about 500ml of detergent (not soap) to the water for each fleece (10-15lbs). (At the mill "Joy" and "Ivory" are used.) Do not use detergents that contain phosphates. Add as much fiber as will stay submerged. Let soak. Do not agitate. Rinse at least twice using water of approximately the same temperature. Squeeze or wring the fibers to remove the water. Dry the fibers on screens or racks. Pick if you wish during or after drying. You know if the dryed wool is washed enough if after handling it for some time and pressing your fingertips together, you do not feel your skin sticking. For greasy wools, such as Merino, Rambouillet, Columbia, etc., you may have to wash several times. It is not uncommon to wash three times for some of these fleeces.

If you are doing seveal loads, notice the amount of suds in the first wash. You want a few soap bubbles in the water, but not too much. Adjust amount of detergent based on the amount of grease in your particular fleece. Adding ammonia, about a cup, is acceptable.

You can use the above process in a washing machine and get great results. Fill the washer with the water, add detergent, stir, add wool until you can not push any more in. Let sit for 20 minutes or more. Drain water (never agitate). As the tub spins, direct hot water on the spinning wool. If you can observe the water draining, continue applying water until it is clear. (At the mill, a short hose is hooked to the hot water tap and this is sprayed on the wool. Since you have to do this with the top open, be careful. Don't drop the hose in.) Your wool will dry much faster if you can use your washing machine as a centrifuge.

Getting the wool to Fingerlakes Woolen Mill

You may drop the wool at the mill, or send it via UPS, USPS or motor freight. Wool is best sent in boxes or burlap bags. You may use plastic grain bags provided you use a regular plastic bag inside the grain bag. The best way is to simply compact it into a large paper towel box; you should be able to get 40 to 50 pounds in such a box. Put a label with your name and address inside the box as well as outside. If you want the wool washed and/or picked and carded, weigh the wool and prepay for the service. If you want the wool spun, the mill requires a 50% deposit. Unless arrangements are made for you to pick up the carded fibers or yarn you will be notified of the balance due (including shipping and handling charges) when your lot is completed. Fingerlakes guarantees to return your own wool.

If you wish to bring the wool and have it carded "while you wait", you must make an appointment. You may be required to assist (i.e. to bag the carded wool).

All visits to the mill are by appointment or chance.

Questions ? Please call 315-497-1542 or fax 315-497-9189
Fingerlakes Woolen Mill
1193 Stewarts' Corners' Rd.
Genoa, New York 13071

or e-mail us